Filling my Five Stomachs in Naples

           I awoke feeling refreshed and excited not only to see Naples, the center of the culinary world, but to taste it as well! Every time we told someone that we were coming to Naples, the first thing that came out of their mouths was some variation of "delicious food". This was good for a variety of reasons, including that all of us – myself, my fellow student Myriah, and our faculty advisor, David, share a love of great food. Knowing that, we couldn't wait to see what different tastes the city would offer us.

Photo credit: David Marks

          We were in Italy to take part in several ContextTravel tours. Our fantastic docent, Fiorella, took us to an amazing pizzeria that was famous for serving the best pizza in the world. It was a great environment with classical music, great servers, and families having a fantastic time. From our entrance until we sat down, all I could smell was the old fashioned brick oven doing what it does best. When our waiter took our order, I felt stuck between two emotions…total excitement because I felt like this was about to be the peak of my whole entire experience of being in Italy, and on the other hand, doubt. What if I had come all this way in search of great food that might not even be appealing to me? But...I never back down from a challenge. I had come way too far to be second guessing myself, so I ordered the most meat-filled pizza on the menu and waited patiently for the moment of truth.

           As you could guess from a true foodie, my heart was beating fast, and my taste buds were tingling in anticipation. It wasn't long until the saints brought me the most elegant and beautiful piece of pizza I have ever seen in my whole life. Strangely, I felt as if the world stopped. All eyes were on me. I paused for a second, then took a very deep and confident bite...

           This moment was when I became a man in the food world. That first bite almost brought tears to my eyes, and in that instant all I could do was smile with my mouth full and my taste buds satisfied. This bite? It totally changed my view on pizza. I realized that nothing - and I mean nothing - will ever compare to what I was eating in Naples…and this was just the start of my gastronomic journey.

           The next day after breakfast, another amazing docent, Alberto, arrived to take us on a culinary tour of Napoli. He took us to several local farm markets to pick up fresh ingredients. We arrived at a fish store, where they had a live octopus that Alberto and I touched out of curiosity. While the octopus had behaved itself for Alberto and I, it got a little friendly with Myriah. She jumped, screamed, and ran across the street, as far away from the moving tentacles as possible. After everyone was finished laughing, we proceeded onward with our walk since we knew we had a lot of shopping to do.  After scanning the stand that had fish, eels, shrimp, and assorted marine life, we bought a kilo of Naples clams that were so fresh that their little eyes were stretching out of their shells. We entered a small delicatessen with ham hanging from the ceiling, and sampled buffalo mozzarella that was so fresh that milk came out of it when it was cut.  Our shopping basket quickly filled with the rest of our amazing ingredients: bitter greens, fresh baked bread, hard bread for bruschetta, and olive oil, lots of olive oil.    

           

Photo credit: Malik Lee

              With our arms full of goods and watering mouths, we headed to Alberto's house to cook a traditional Neapolitan dinner. Alberto was an excellent teacher for Myriah and I, as neither of us had cooked these recipes before.  He guided us perfectly through the making of many Neapolitan dishes, including making pizza dough, pasta, friarielli, and the proper way to cook clams. After all our hard work, we got to reap the rewards The clams with linguine sung in my mouth with the taste of perfectly al dente pasta swimming in briny goodness.  Caprese salad held the perfect culinary blend of Italy’s trifecta: mozzarella, basil, and tomatoes.  Although our hand made pizzas were delicious and a notch above the American variety, they could not hold a candle to the pizza of the restaurant, where they have 900 degree ovens and bake the pizza for no longer than 90 seconds!  Our bruschetta held the perfect crunch of the bread with a simple cherry tomato and basil tapenade.  We had made an extraordinary and very delicious Neapolitan meal!  Myriah and I were happy that our hard work and hands-on learning experience was so satisfactory to all those lucky enough to be seated around the table. We ate until we were stuffed, and then ate some more. While, as a growing teen, I can eat a lot, this was the first time I’ve ever felt like I filled my five stomachs. Luckily, my memories will ruminate with me for a lifetime.

-Malik Lee

Enjoying an Espresso with Michelangelo

                About a year ago, I was helping my mom cook dinner when a gum commercial came on, depicting a dad and his daughter experiencing amazing life events together, including a baseball game, riding the train, and her birthday as they got older. Then the commercial showed the daughter moving her stuff into the car and going off to college. As she was making one last trip hauling stuff to the car, she dropped the box and out poured  hundreds of origami gum wrappers made into cranes! This scene triggered an emotional response in me like I had never had before! While I have always been an emotional person, nothing could have prepared me for seeing Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel.

Photo credit: David Marks

It was a rainy Tuesday in March, and we met up with our wonderful Context Travel docent Cecilia and 3 other tour mates to start our adventure of the day, which was the Vatican tour. Of course, I was bursting with excitement because I was about to see the Raphael rooms, Bernini’s Baldacchino, and Michelangelo’s dome. These pieces of art and architecture have a huge impact on art we see today, and they have been emulated throughout time.

After seeing the Raphael rooms, we made our way down to the Sistine Chapel. Our amazing docent Cecilia forewarned us not to look at The Last Judgement until we reached the middle divider so we could see the full wall perfectly. As soon as we stepped foot into the chapel, a guard kept yelling, “No cameras! No pictures! No talking!” This was quite a shocking experience, because the Chapel was not as big as I thought it would be, and it was filled to the brim with people. What surprised me was that I felt like I was one of the only people in the chapel that day who experienced magic. I was surprised to see people acting as if this visit was a daily, normal thing – because it was quickly becoming a life-changing event for me.

The Sistine Chapel is a space where Michelangelo spent from 1508-1512 just painting the ceiling, and again in 1535-1541 painting The Last Judgement on the front wall. When I saw Michelangelo’s depiction of Genesis (the first book in the bible), my eyes started to get blurry, there was a pressure in my chest, and my body started heaving. When I saw Adam and God nearly touching, it took my breath away. To see how Michelangelo depicted how the start of mankind and God were so close really got me thinking of his religious beliefs then…and how it would change during his painting of The Last Judgement.

Picture Sources: Google Images

As I made my way to the center wall, I turned around and automatically zeroed in on Michelangelo himself. His painting of himself really unnerved me because I felt his presence so strongly while staring at him. I saw his despair in the way his mouth is slightly open, I felt his agony in the way his skin is loose, and his position in which he is halfway to hell and halfway to heaven. He painted the hell so violently and creepy. I felt his doubt in the church, as something he so strongly believed in came crashing down once he possibly started to experience the corruption in the church. I was stunned, shaken to my core. To see a religious struggle right there, for everyone to see, as painted by a master, was an experience like no other. I stood there, astounded at the religious struggle and transformation happening right before my eyes.   

Picture Sources: Google Images

“SHHHHHHHHH! NO TALKING!” The guard interrupted my reverie and brought me back to the present. My eyes gushing like a Roman fountain, I looked up at the ceiling and noticed Jonah who got swallowed by the fish - and he is huge compared to the other characters. In between the tears pouring down my face and my nose starting to run, I started laughing - because I could see Michelangelo painting Noah first, and then thinking, “Oh dear, better scale it down a bit.” I noticed that people were giving me crazy looks, possibly because of the trifecta of laughter, tears, and a runny nose.

Near me, a man with his hands in his pockets bumped into the man in front of him on accident. The man in front yelled out “Hey you, watch out! And don’t touch my bum!” The guy behind him said, “I didn’t even touch you, my hands are in my pockets!” Then one of the guard rushed over and says in his best English, “Calm down, please!” As my dramatic moment with Michelangelo was put on pause for the men’s melodrama over bum touching, I reassembled myself and then returned to Michelangelo and my discussion through our hearts. I looked around at Malik and Mr. Marks, expecting the same reaction I had, but they had no tears! I guess people react to things differently.

Sooner than I thought possible, Cecilia rounded us all up to leave. I had thought we’d be in there 20 minutes, not just five! I didn’t want to leave, but at the same time I was happy to, because I was crying fiercely, my stomach was heaving violently, and my head was throbbing. I was overcome with emotion - and I was the only one in the Chapel wearing my emotions on my face. I could not form one coherent thought or barely move my feet to walk out the door. My brain was going a thousand miles a minute while the rest of my body was on autopilot.

          Upon reflection, I figured out why I reacted so passionately to the Sistine Chapel. Michelangelo talked to me just as if we were sitting down having espressos and pastries like best friends do. I finally recognized why I cried for the gum commercial after this; because the commercial showed me such amazing life experiences and I felt them as I’ve gone through my life. However, being in the Sistine Chapel was just like having Michelangelo right behind me, whispering everything he thought about each character in my ear. We had a Hallmark moment. I really believe Michelangelo still lives in the chapel, or at least his soul does. I don’t know when I will ever go back to the Vatican, but when I do, I hope Michelangelo will chat with me again like old friends who catch up easily after a long period of time apart.

          I am so grateful to Context Travel for helping me understand and see something that has affected countless people through the ages, including myself. I experienced the Sistine Chapel, and feel like I should win an award, just as after you eat a dozen spicy hot wings and win a t-shirt. I want an “I experienced the Sistine Chapel and managed to make it out of the room” t-shirt. I think Michelangelo would like one also, I’ll ask him the next time we have an espresso. 

-Myriah Catalano

Courtesans, Caravaggio, and Connections

The great Italian painter, Caravaggio, is known for his rock star personality to the Roman public and going through money like toilet paper.  I have always overlooked him and thought that he was unimportant, especially when compared to the great geniuses who came before him, such as Michelangelo or Raphael. Why would a man who used dirty people from the street as models for religious icons get recognition? I found out why when I recently took a Context Travel walk in Rome, called Caravaggio’s Mean Streets. Our docent, Lauren Golden, a British art history PhD who resembles JK Rowling, was a walking encyclopedia who clearly laid it all out the table like she was serving a five course Italian dinner.  

Photo credit: David Marks

Our first stop, the Church of Sant’Agostino, was the only church in Rome where courtesans (ladies of the night) could attend mass each Sunday and repent for their sins! One of these courtesans even became famous as Caravaggio’s muse and lover. As soon as we stepped inside the church, I was immersed into a world where I could visualize the courtesans sitting in their designated pews in the front of the church so they would not distract the men.If they had sat in the back of the church then there was fear that the men would constantly turn around in their seats to gawk at their beautiful faces. I understood how the courtesans would feel trying to repent like everyone else, only to repeat their sins the next day in order to survive. The main thing that caught my eye in this church, however, was the painting, Madonna di Loreto, and how it contained the same model for Mary as in his painting, Dei Palafrenieri, located in the Borghese art gallery. I imagined the model courtesan attending this church and seeing herself in the painting and feeling quite empowered…or embarrassed. What must it have been like, seeing yourself on the church walls every Sunday morning? She must have been of some importance to Caravaggio if he used her twice. I wonder if she loved him - or felt adored or used by him?   

As we walked up to the painting, the church guard quickly turned off the lights on the painting in hopes of receiving offerings to the church - the painting was muted by darkness. In his dark green jacket and stressed face, he asked for donations with his eyes as if he were barely containing his annoyance for cheap tourists.  As soon as a new group would walk up, he would turn off the light so that they would not be able to see the painting in all of its glory unless an offering was made! I could not get a good picture or appreciate it for more than 2 minutes at a time. I wonder if church guards back then haggled for donations to keep the paintings illuminated by candlelight.

Photo credit: Myriah Catalano

My perspective and appreciation for Caravaggio grew at our next stop, where we analyzed the Saint Matthew series at San Luigi dei Francesi church. The immense, powerful trio of paintings reminded me of this show I used to watch as a little girl, called “Out of the Box.” In that show, the characters jumped into pictures. I, too, felt as if I could  jump into Caravaggio’s life as I stared in wonder at these paintings. The first piece is called The Calling of St. Matthew.  The painting truly makes the viewer wonder if Caravaggio used his personal experience in gambling halls to show the debt collecting of Matthew’s profession. The painting is so lifelike, I could smell the dingy air in the room, and feel the tension of Jesus asking Matthew to join his Apostles. I sensed the protective instinct of the boy reaching for his sword to defend Matthew from supposed thieves. I could detect as if Matthew was about to look up and question everything he has ever done with his life. I imagined him struggling with being a greedy tax collector. His head is bowed in the painting, as if questioning his life, thinking, am I a bad person? Do I need to change?

          This painting reminded me of times when I realized that I had done something wrong and started questioning everything that I had ever stood for and done.  Surprisingly, Caravaggio turned on a whole new light for me, as if he were the haughty church guard who had just collected a donation. He painted his life and real people in his works, to connect the paintings to how people on the streets coming in would associate themselves with the pictures. The people would see the dirtiness of Madonna di Loreto’s feet and the grimy haggard way of the pilgrims. They jumped inside them, just like I did - and I am not even a particularly religious person.

           Caravaggio touched the little faith I had in his artistic capabilities and my own religious beliefs, and I could intertwine his personal experiences with mine. With his realistic paintings, he knew how to reach the church’s main audience, no matter how offended the church got. Caravaggio told you his life story, and someone else’s - through his paintings, and that is why I could relate to him. I could relate to him since he shows real life and situations in his paintings.  Each piece throws me back into things I see in my own modern community where one wrong look can still mean a problem as it did in the 1600’s - Caravaggio captured that. It was as if the foggiest cloud dissipated from in front of my eyes, and I saw what he was trying to say. I am grateful that Context Travel gave me the tools and context in which to begin to appreciate this master painter.  

-Myriah Catalano

True Art Revealed

Photo credit: David Marks

Scipione Borghese, an Italian Cardinal from 1610 to 1633, was a very strong willed and conniving art collector who built a palace to match and display one of the finest art collections in the world.  His legacy was the establishment of the art collection of the Villa Borghese. This man’s attempts get his hands on the rarest art around wasn't always through the most pleasant of means. Although he stole and forced most people out of their art for his collection, I am really grateful that he did. I know that sounds selfish, but when I entered the museum, it was honestly the first time I made a true connection with art.

It's hard to describe, but I could feel the emotions and connect with the characteristics of the wonderful pieces that were displayed before me.  Witnessing Bernini's sculptures and paintings by other great artists gave me the appreciation to truly start to understand Baroque art. You can do all the research you want in the world on Baroque art, but until you stand before these works of genius, it is difficult to grasp the story and the history behind the artists’ emotions towards their work. After spending two hours at this magnificent Villa Borghese with Context Travel’s phenomenal guide, Hilary, I felt like a child opening up the biggest box he could find on a gentle Christmas Day. Two of my favorite pieces in the Villa Borghese were a statue by Bernini and a painting by Raphael.

Gian Lorenzo Bernini was one of the finest artists and contributors to the most beautiful sites we see today in Rome. He wasn't perfect, and he happened to make some erratic choices when it came to picking the right marble for his statutes. Unlike Michelangelo who really took pride in the selection of the perfect marbles to use, Bernini accepted his marble blocks sight unseen. This really made me frustrated, because I felt that if he would have taken that extra step to trying to perfect not only himself but his art, he could have true perfection in his statutes.

photos courtesy wikimedia commons

Besides the small imperfections in the marble - pockmarks here, black cracks and stains there, they all spoke to me. The one that really appealed to my emotions from all directions was Bernini's Apollo and Daphne. Do you know this extraordinary statue - and the story behind it? Our amazing docent told us to use the perspectives that Bernini wanted us to, as we viewed the sculpture. As you walk around the delicate carving from a single slab of marble, you have to imagine that you don't know the myth of the statute. At first from behind, it's gentle - you can see only a man running for something he wants. Then from the side, I got this sense of them making love and enjoying a good time. Next, Bernini  revealed from the front that it was the complete opposite since she looked in distress and was trying to run away from Apollo. Bernini did a great job of showing actual movement in the sculpture. It's almost as if you could predict the next sequence of movements about to happen. Finally, when I reached the last side, I felt Daphne’s pain, as well as Apollo’s lust. This could have all been avoided if Cupid could have taken a joke and not caused Apollo to be a crazed man in love with an untouchable woman, but then we would not have this interesting story and even more unbelievable statue to gaze upon.

photos courtesy wikimedia commons

Another piece within the gallery, Raphael's painting of the Deposition of Christ, was a perfect example of Renaissance art that helped me view art in a completely different way. Hilary sat us all down and told us to imagine lines crossing corner to corner on the canvas. Then she spoke about how Renaissance art was all about balance. Beside the emotion of a mother’s greatest grief being portrayed, it also showed perfect balance in numbers and in color.

Before I experienced Context’s walk on Italian art at the Villa Borghese, I never thought there were so many messages and higher level of thinking put into all this paint on canvas or carved marble. This walk really changed my mind about art and the way I view and process canvas and sculptures. It was very emotional for me and left me somewhat upset when we ran out of time, as analyzing art is something that I grew to appreciate once I was shown how to do it.  I cannot wait to dive into artwork in the future that will open my eyes to new worlds beyond those of Bernini and Raphael.   

-Malik Lee

2o14 TYTT Scholarship Trip is Right Around the Corner

Myriah & Malik have been working hard the last two months reading and researching their Context walks. They depart on the 21st for Rome and Naples. Follow along with them on this blog as they write about their first experience traveling overseas. This will be an amazing trip!