Nomandy War Memorials: The Peace After the Storm

Today I stood on American hallowed grounds – the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. Seventy years after the end of World War II, Normandy beaches Sword, Juno, Gold, Omaha, and Utah display a serene landscape. Standing on the gorgeous beaches was so surreal – the peaceful surroundings did not match with the tumultuous history.  Running toward the hills on Omaha beach allowed me to better relate with the experience of the soldiers who stormed the beaches on that dreadful day, now known as D-Day.

German bunker with gun
Photo by: Jessica Hardy

During World War II, D-Day commenced on the beaches of Normandy, in the North Western region of France, as the Allied forces wished to create a new war front and eventually capture Berlin. All that is left today are the remains of German bunkers and war memorials.

However, what personally caught my attention was the contrast between the American and German memorial cemeteries.  The Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial helped me to realize the devastation caused by D-Day (and World War II in its entirety), as more than nine thousand white crosses graced the green landscape in front of me.

While I shivered at the sheer number of the dead, the statue named the American Young Rising, with hands and head facing towards the heavens, complemented by row upon row of erect white crosses, portrayed a sense of victory and glory.

American Young Rising Statue
Photo by: Jessica Hardy

I was deeply moved as the US national anthem, followed by Taps, began to play in the background. I felt an enormous sense of pride and gratitude as I stood on not only a war memorial, but also an active war zone from World War II. No longer was D-Day just words in a history book, but tangible words on a tombstone.

However, I was quickly reminded that the American casualties were minute in comparison to those of the enemy. When I entered La Cambe German War Cemetery, which is not far from the Normandy American Cemetery, I knew that I had entered the sanctuary of the defeated. Instead of an individual cross for each dead body, two to three Germans share one plaque. Groups of worn stone crosses present a solemn mood. Our guide made an interesting observation. To him,  the narrow passageway to the cemetery which allowed only one person to enter at a time symbolized that death takes its prey one by one.



Grave of Unidentified Body at Normandy American Cemetery
Photo By: Jessica Hardy

It is easy for people to blame the war on the Germans. Although the casualties worldwide were both monstrous and tragic, spending time at La Cambe German War Cemetery helped me to realize that both the German and American soldiers were similar in some ways. These soldiers never asked to come to the grave and sacrifice their lives. Many of the soldiers in La Cambe had just turned eighteen when they took their last breath. I wonder how many German soldiers knew that they would give their lives for a lost cause.

In hindsight, D-Day will never be the same in my mind. Although I will never experience the war for myself, being able to touch the German guns and see the American cemetery has allowed my knowledge of history to become a reality. There is nothing more touching than these words inscribed on a tombstone: “Here rests in honored glory a comrade in arms known but to God.” Through this experience I have realized the raw definition of sacrifice. Sacrifice is the nine thousand American white crosses and the twenty-one thousand German graves which grace the landscape of Normandy – the peace after the storm.

 

The Paris Opera House: From Napoleon III to Chagall

As I walked in the massive Opera House building in Paris, the beautiful interior and Baroque style decor caught my eye. The interior of the Opera House is made up of around 30 different types of marble, and honors many of the most famous composers with sculptures and their names along the exterior of the buildings architecture. As I walked up the grand staircase the marble shine from the ground drew my eyes to follow the sides of the stairs to the ceiling masterpiece. I felt tiny next to the decorative lamps and statues, I had a feeling of royalty and elegance.

wikicommons: "Opera Garnier Grand Escalier" by Benh Lieu Song

The Opera de Paris represents the amazing work of Charles Garnier built from 1861 to 1875, this untested architect won a competition out of 171 applicants to plan and construct a new Opera House commissioned by Napoleon III. However, Napoleon was removed from power in 1870 and construction on the Opera Building was stopped. The planning of the Opera was composed of the style Napoleon III wanted, monogrammed with his initials, and featuring paintings that depicted his accomplishments as Emperor. Paris still needed an Opera House, and so the construction was restarted under the government of the Third Republic. It is interesting to know that the government kept the original planning that Napoleon wanted. It is a bit ironic because Napoleon was no longer in power, however, I believe that it was necessary to keep the original planning in remembrance to Napoleons accomplishments but, also to remember the rebellious act of the citizens over the Emperor and thus the Third Republic was formed.

The Opera House Grand Foyer, Photo by Jessica Hardy

In addition to the beautiful architectural style inside the Opera building, the ceiling area in the auditorium was originally painted by Jules E. Lenepveu in the late 19th century, but repainted by Marc Chagall in 1964. Chagall painted over the original painting because France's minister of Culture wanted something unique that would make the Opera house standout. The juxtaposition of this painting is usually criticized because it is different from the original structure of Garniers architectural style. However, I believe that it sets up a message that I have gotten throughout my stay in Paris: that not only Parisians but all French citizens appreciate and try to keep as much history alive. The style of the Opera House represents history, and the painting by Marc Chagall represents change. Change is an essential characteristic that is necessary to make an individual or place different from others. It is difficult to value change in its moment but it then becomes a part of a movement in life. Throughout my journey in the neighborhoods of Paris, I've learned about the evolution of the architecture in buildings and how they represent a change in the lives of Parisians.

Marc Chagall ceiling, Photo by Jessica Hardy

The size of the Opera house is huge and it made me feel like an ant next to an apple. I was awakened by the fact that there was so much to see, I didn't know where to start looking. The interior caught my attention because it has a variety of art styles in one building. As we walked through the Opera House, there were so many different forms of interior design that made me feel overwhelmed with beauty. I never thought that I would be enamored by a building like the Opera de Paris Garnier as I was. The fine points stacked up detail after detail, layer after layer of perfection.

Rebeca Vargas

Stones Below Paris

As we walked through the diverse city of Paris, we were able to see huge buildings and cute cafes. The smell of delicious pastries drew us in every morning to our neighborhood boulangerie to buy croissants. Walking narrow and wide streets through the different arrondissements, I could see the way Parisians go about their day. Making mistakes on the metro, walking into stores saying bonjour and merci is an amazing experience. One of the best ways to experience and absorb the culture is to interact with locals. A great way to connect with a new city is by understanding its history. Context Travel does this for the intellectually curious traveler. The process of Paris becoming a city that values history, by keeping and; restoring historical buildings and objects, is lovely. By understanding the birth of the city of Paris, individuals can connect with its history. Here, I’ll share two Context Travel tours that greatly influenced the way I see the city – and the world.

"La crypte archéologique du Parvis de Notre-Dame (Paris) by dalbera from Paris, France
Wikimedia Commons

The Birth of the City of Light walk with Context Travel gave us an overview of the Roman city of Lutetia, located in the grounds of what is now Paris in the Ile de Cite and mainly in the left bank. This walk had many interesting facts about the Roman city. However, visiting the Crypte Archeologique was breathtaking. Our docent shared the history of the city of Lutetia. It was discovered when Parisians were digging to create more space, and fortunately found the remains of the ancient Roman city. The remains of the ancient city showed how stones were set up to create the city. It was interesting to learn the way Lutetia kept expanding in a circle, like rings of a tree trunk, with the Ile de la Cite in the center. Many Roman structures are still used in Paris, including; the Roman city planning main north-south-oriented main street called  cardo maximus. The process of seeing these ancient sites and then comparing it to the innovation of the buildings above throughout time made me think about what the world values. Paris appreciates the beauty of original buildings and makes them accessible to the public by having major museums free of charge for children and students. More places should follow this structure of having accessible sites for young people, it gives individuals a chance to explore and learn outside of school.   

Louvre medieval fortress photo by Rebeca Vargas

The Louvre Crash Course walking seminar started by entering the newly discovered medieval fortress under the famous museum. This part of the walk held my attention because it was underneath the Louvre for a long time until it was discovered in the 1980s, when the glass pyramid was added to the beautiful museum. After learning about the medieval fortress, the history of the rest of the Louvre fell into place.

"Fortress remains, Louvre, Paris June 2014" by daryl_mitchell from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
 Fortress Remains-Wikimedia Commons

The amusing part of the discovery of the fortress is that it was not planned. The discovery of most remains of historical buildings in Paris are opened for the public to explore and learn about the past. I wonder if I start digging in my backyard, what will I find? I have grown an interest in the findings of historical buildings and objects. I have created a new challenge or added to my bucket list, to go back to the Louvre and learn about the artifacts there that we did not see today. Realistically, it will take me more than three days because the Louvre is huge, but I am up for the challenge and will return to the City of Light later in my lifetime. How long do you think it takes to go through the whole Louvre? 

Notre Dame: Holy Museum?

Entrance to Notre Dame
Photo by: Jessica Hardy

   When thinking of Notre Dame, one might picture ornate spires, rusted gargoyles, and monumental entrances. I, too pictured this in my head, in anticipation for my visit to Paris. While I did found these characteristics to hold true, Notre Dame was also overrun by various less appealing characteristics as well.

   Upon approach, Notre Dame offers a spectacular entrance, second to none, characterized by three doors ornate with not only biblical and historical sculptures, but also royal motifs. The cathedral’s larger than life appearance excited my architectural passions and beckoned me to see more. Once inside, however, I witnessed first-hand the results of the presence of tourists and holy relics in one city. While the nave of Notre Dame is nothing less than an impressive showcase of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture, I was easily distracted by the presence of the crowd, murmuring and snapping pictures. I will not lie, I took pictures too; but I was constantly pervaded by the thought – this was not a gothic cathedral.

Ceiling at Notre Dame
Photo by: Jessica Hardy

  

   During medieval Paris, the Catholic clergy had Gothic Cathedrals constructed with massive stained-glass windows, colossal columns, complex ceilings, and dimmed lighting to create a supernatural experience for Parisian commoners, making the individual minute in comparison to the church. However, the presence of camera-snapping tourists and church-related advertisements coinciding with serious Catholics performing prayers and visible confessionals created a quite uncomfortable juxtaposition. Such a contrast provided no room for the reverence due to such a holy building. I had expected a holy cathedral and found a “holy museum”?

   

Alter at Sainte-Etienne-du-Monte
Photo by: Jessica Hardy

Even though Notre Dame did not satisfy my preconceived notions, I still highly recommend visiting the cathedral for its sheer scale as well as its biblical and historical symbolism. However,  I found that the smaller cathedrals around Paris present a more personal and traditional experience. For example, the Sainte-Etienne-du-Monte is a church in Paris, located on the Montagne Sainte-Geneviève in the 5th arrondissement, near the Panthéon. Although much smaller that Notre Dame, it contains the shrine of St. Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. In addition, its’ smaller scale allows a more individual experience. I also found that I was able to enjoy the ceremonial mass, the lighting of the prayer candles, the symbols of the stained-glass windows, and the solemn atmosphere in a quieter, more traditional space. Who knew that I would find what I was looking for at Notre Dame in a smaller, less famous church – home to the patron saint of Paris? On second thought, that makes perfect sense.

2015 Scholarship Winners Prepare for Paris

Within 24 hours, Jessica Hardy and Rebeca Veliz will be in route to Paris. After three months of preparation classes, Context walks research, variety of readings and films, these two girls are ready to land in the City of Light.  Although it is challenging to write about a city that you have yet to see in person, each student wrote a pre-trip blog. Thanks to Dr. Jessie Voigt for working behind the scenes to assist students with their blogs. 

Check out Jessica's post, titled, From Cardboard Box to Notre Dame Cathedral

Wikimedia Commons: By Freepenguin

It is so funny how over time we grow and our minds tend to change. However, there are some passions that never leave our heads, those reoccurring dreams that we want so much to be a reality.

When I was about ten years old, I took the liberty to go through my mother’s mail. Upon finding an architectural magazine, I began to look through it… and every single house plan and style seemed to catch my attention. Some I fell in love with, some I hated. As a ten year old, I began to have an opinion about the world of architecture.

To read more, see Jessica's blog post, click link below.  Featured on Wandering Educators

 http://www.wanderingeducators.com/best/stories/cardboard-box-notre-dame-cathedral.html

Check out Rebeca's post, titled, Monet to Banksy: From Impressionist to Street Art

Auguste Renoir - Dance at Le Moulin de la Galette, 1876, oil on canvas, 131x175cm - Musée d'Orsay RF 2739 (derivative work - AutoContrast edit in LCH space). Wikimedia Commons

Cafés in Paris, France in the 19th century served as a place where individuals gathered to talk about painting, literature, and politics. In the corner of a Café, a group of young artists (who later became known as Impressionists) shared their dreams and aspirations in the art world. Their dreams included becoming professional artists, with their art works being accepted and displayed in the Salon, however they faced rejection from the art community. Many Impressionist artists, like Renoir and Monet, didn't go to traditional schools of painting - they went to studios that artists opened for young artist to use. Despite their rejections at the Salon, they didn't give up - and now their artwork is displayed in famous museums in Paris and around the world. Their ambition and grit helped them achieve success. The Musee d'Orsay is one of the museums that displays Impressionist works.

To read more, see Rebeca's blog post, click link below.  Featured on Wandering Educators

http://www.wanderingeducators.com/monet-banksy-impressionists-street-art.html