Relaxing and Enjoying the City

August 27, 2008

Today was perfect; after feeling the effects of information overload from all the amazing tours of this past week, we got to relax and enjoy the Borghese gallery, in which we learned such a great amount about Caravaggio and Bernini and Raphael. We then spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the city, trying to find our way to some famous sites before we have to head back home.

My favorite part of the experience at the Galleria Borghese was our docent. She was absolutely marvelous at explaining all the history behind the famous sculptures by Bernini, and I was sort of laughing to myself at all the folks walking around with a headset listening to an automated explanation of the artwork. We then got to sit down with our docent, who is an art conservationist, to learn all about her fascinating career. I didn’t realize it was as much dedicated schooling as becoming a doctor or lawyer. Not only must you know your art history, but you have to excel in chemistry and the fine arts and technique and so much more. It was fascinating to hear her stories of what its like to work here in Italy, one of the art capitals of the world.

After exploring the lovely grounds of the Borghese Villa we set out to explore. We briefly visited Santa Maria del Popolo in hopes to see the famous “Conversion of St. Paul” by Caravaggio, but we went at 2pm when the church was taking its afternoon break. Like I mentioned awhile back, things just work differently here in Italy. From there we did something extremely exciting to me—we visited the Spanish Steps. The reason that I love them so much is because I know them from “Roman Holiday” starring Gregory Peck, and my favorite, Audrey Hepburn. It’s interesting to me how things become so much more personal when we recognize them, relating it back to prior experiences that touched us in some form or another. It’s a great emotional connection. I also got to film the introduction to the documentary of my trip here on the Spanish Steps, with all the tourists staring, probably wondering who I was.

Finally, in the evening we had a wonderful dinner party with all the docents and myself and my chaperone on the terrace above our apartment. I was so blessed to be around such great minds. All of them are the top of the line in their fields of study but then they are such down to earth and personable people. It was a great way to finish up the week. And, I also realized how much I am going to miss the incredible Italian cuisine!
Ciao!

Katie Estabrook (Hagstrom)

Katie meets Rome as Our First Scholarship Winner in 2008

August 20, 2008

Our grand adventure here in Rome began today at 8:30 am when we arrived in the airport and took a speedy ride through the city to our quaint little Italian apartment in the center of Rome, about 15 minutes walking distance from all the great major landmarks and monuments. We got settled in and then Kim and I set out to explore our surroundings.

We began to realize the cultural differences right away. First we stopped for a quick bite at a street side “ristorante” or restaurant, and since the menus were all in Italian, I just picked a sandwich off the menu and I had no clue what was going to be inside. It turned out to be spinach, mushrooms and cheese, a very healthy choice. Then there was the joy of trying to figure out if we could add a tip on the receipt from a waitress whom we couldn’t understand. From there we headed to a bank to try to get some cash out. Kim inserted her card several times into the machine and entered the amount she wanted, then the machine said take your card out in thirty seconds, but every time she took it out the transaction canceled. So, she tried just leaving it in past the thirty seconds—this was lesson number two for the day. Apparently in Italy if you don’t remove your card in time, the machine eats it, and as you can imagine this freaked us out just a little. Then we walked around to the front of the bank and no one was inside. Well, eventually everything got settled and we got the cash and were able to stop and enjoy a quick cup of superb gelato. It was a bit of a culture shock, but we just began to realize that life is different here and everyone operates on a different system.

From there we headed back to the apartment for a quick power nap to try to defeat our jet lag, and then set out to meet up with our Italian guides Petulia and Jessica. They gave us an impromptu tour that turned out to be incredible. I learned so much about the history of the art in the churches and the buildings themselves. One thing I saw that I was not expecting at all were the paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi. The church was full of paintings, but at the end was a little corner nook with paintings by Caravaggio. Walking up you can only see one painting, and as we were approaching I was telling Jessica how much I loved the Caravaggio painting titled “The Calling of St. Matthew.” Little did I know that as I rounded the corner, there it was, in all its glory. I literally almost fainted because I couldn’t believe that this picture I studied so much in art history class back home was actually there before my eyes. Art truly became alive to me today and I realized that what you see in your textbook is incomparable by all means to the real thing.

From there we went on to see the majestic Pantheon where Raphael, one of my favorite Renaissance painters, was buried. The Pantheon itself was so remarkable and to think that people actually built something so complex so many years ago absolutely blew my mind.

Today was a very overwhelming day, but in the best sense. The information that I took in was priceless, and I’m only more excited for the coming days.

Discovering the Power of Art in Rome

          Today I realized that we only had one more day to spend in Rome. Time really flies when you're having a fantastic time learning and exploring. To think about leaving such a beautiful place filled with such a humble culture, great food, and history makes me so sad. It's hard to admit, but I'm truly heartbroken that we have to go. Ten days wasn't near enough time to fully experience all aspects of the Roman humanities. There are definitely some places that I need to revisit in the future, as well as some places I plan on showing my parents so they can experience what I have felt these past several days. It is an amazing feeling to actually connect with something on a higher level of thinking, especially when it's unexpected. The many different docents I have had have all opened my eyes to new topics in history, and all have encouraged these connections I'm having, especially with art.  Here are descriptions of my top three “aha” moments with Roman art and architecture.

1.  Borromini and Bernini rivalry and effective style of baroque art in complementing the counter reformation. I found it very interesting that these two brilliant minds didn't get along with each other, but it's understandable because they were complete opposites. One was always trying to outdo the other which made them both produce to their full potential. They both basically created stepping stones to a new style of art and architecture that they perfected very well. Bernini's sculptures were breath taking, the movements and the aura they gave off made them seem like they were alive. Borromini's fantastic architectural style really demonstrate his hard work and dedication towards how serious he was about his art. Their influences on church architecture were amazing, both making you feel warm and close to God.

2. Caravaggio's paintings really made me feel some type of way. He related to poor people and changed a lot of ways we look at art. He showed true emotions portrayed through suffering, not only other people but his own. He showed emotions through painting realistic characteristics of actual people which was breaking the rules at this time. His renegade approach to living life was very vivid and spoke to me.

photos courtesy wikimedia commons

3.  Seeing Michelangelo’s Last Judgement was emotional – more so than I had expected. Because we had learned about Michelangelo’s situation when he painted this (doubting his destiny after death and possibly battling the faith that he’d heavily believed in his entire life), the painting was brought to life for us in a new and unexpected way. This painting was a broad summarization of his understanding of life – which turned out to be a beautiful work of art. It made me sad to an extent, but also brought joy to my soul in an odd way – because even though the story was sad, I felt joyful because I understood his clear message.

photos courtesy wikimedia commons

            Before we left for Italy, all I could think about was food and how delicious everything was going to be, which it was, don't get me wrong. But when I stood and looked at a painting or a sculpture and analyzed them with insightful docents from Context Travel, it was like I could feel the emotions and all the characteristics of the artist. In that moment, I could picture what the artist was trying to share and connect them to my emotions and personal experiences. It's a beautiful process through my eyes, and I am so excited to make connections between the art history skills that I have developed and all of the art at home and abroad that I have yet to experience.  

- Malik lee

Courtesans, Caravaggio, and Connections

The great Italian painter, Caravaggio, is known for his rock star personality to the Roman public and going through money like toilet paper.  I have always overlooked him and thought that he was unimportant, especially when compared to the great geniuses who came before him, such as Michelangelo or Raphael. Why would a man who used dirty people from the street as models for religious icons get recognition? I found out why when I recently took a Context Travel walk in Rome, called Caravaggio’s Mean Streets. Our docent, Lauren Golden, a British art history PhD who resembles JK Rowling, was a walking encyclopedia who clearly laid it all out the table like she was serving a five course Italian dinner.  

Photo credit: David Marks

Our first stop, the Church of Sant’Agostino, was the only church in Rome where courtesans (ladies of the night) could attend mass each Sunday and repent for their sins! One of these courtesans even became famous as Caravaggio’s muse and lover. As soon as we stepped inside the church, I was immersed into a world where I could visualize the courtesans sitting in their designated pews in the front of the church so they would not distract the men.If they had sat in the back of the church then there was fear that the men would constantly turn around in their seats to gawk at their beautiful faces. I understood how the courtesans would feel trying to repent like everyone else, only to repeat their sins the next day in order to survive. The main thing that caught my eye in this church, however, was the painting, Madonna di Loreto, and how it contained the same model for Mary as in his painting, Dei Palafrenieri, located in the Borghese art gallery. I imagined the model courtesan attending this church and seeing herself in the painting and feeling quite empowered…or embarrassed. What must it have been like, seeing yourself on the church walls every Sunday morning? She must have been of some importance to Caravaggio if he used her twice. I wonder if she loved him - or felt adored or used by him?   

As we walked up to the painting, the church guard quickly turned off the lights on the painting in hopes of receiving offerings to the church - the painting was muted by darkness. In his dark green jacket and stressed face, he asked for donations with his eyes as if he were barely containing his annoyance for cheap tourists.  As soon as a new group would walk up, he would turn off the light so that they would not be able to see the painting in all of its glory unless an offering was made! I could not get a good picture or appreciate it for more than 2 minutes at a time. I wonder if church guards back then haggled for donations to keep the paintings illuminated by candlelight.

Photo credit: Myriah Catalano

My perspective and appreciation for Caravaggio grew at our next stop, where we analyzed the Saint Matthew series at San Luigi dei Francesi church. The immense, powerful trio of paintings reminded me of this show I used to watch as a little girl, called “Out of the Box.” In that show, the characters jumped into pictures. I, too, felt as if I could  jump into Caravaggio’s life as I stared in wonder at these paintings. The first piece is called The Calling of St. Matthew.  The painting truly makes the viewer wonder if Caravaggio used his personal experience in gambling halls to show the debt collecting of Matthew’s profession. The painting is so lifelike, I could smell the dingy air in the room, and feel the tension of Jesus asking Matthew to join his Apostles. I sensed the protective instinct of the boy reaching for his sword to defend Matthew from supposed thieves. I could detect as if Matthew was about to look up and question everything he has ever done with his life. I imagined him struggling with being a greedy tax collector. His head is bowed in the painting, as if questioning his life, thinking, am I a bad person? Do I need to change?

          This painting reminded me of times when I realized that I had done something wrong and started questioning everything that I had ever stood for and done.  Surprisingly, Caravaggio turned on a whole new light for me, as if he were the haughty church guard who had just collected a donation. He painted his life and real people in his works, to connect the paintings to how people on the streets coming in would associate themselves with the pictures. The people would see the dirtiness of Madonna di Loreto’s feet and the grimy haggard way of the pilgrims. They jumped inside them, just like I did - and I am not even a particularly religious person.

           Caravaggio touched the little faith I had in his artistic capabilities and my own religious beliefs, and I could intertwine his personal experiences with mine. With his realistic paintings, he knew how to reach the church’s main audience, no matter how offended the church got. Caravaggio told you his life story, and someone else’s - through his paintings, and that is why I could relate to him. I could relate to him since he shows real life and situations in his paintings.  Each piece throws me back into things I see in my own modern community where one wrong look can still mean a problem as it did in the 1600’s - Caravaggio captured that. It was as if the foggiest cloud dissipated from in front of my eyes, and I saw what he was trying to say. I am grateful that Context Travel gave me the tools and context in which to begin to appreciate this master painter.  

-Myriah Catalano