Relaxing and Enjoying the City

August 27, 2008

Today was perfect; after feeling the effects of information overload from all the amazing tours of this past week, we got to relax and enjoy the Borghese gallery, in which we learned such a great amount about Caravaggio and Bernini and Raphael. We then spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the city, trying to find our way to some famous sites before we have to head back home.

My favorite part of the experience at the Galleria Borghese was our docent. She was absolutely marvelous at explaining all the history behind the famous sculptures by Bernini, and I was sort of laughing to myself at all the folks walking around with a headset listening to an automated explanation of the artwork. We then got to sit down with our docent, who is an art conservationist, to learn all about her fascinating career. I didn’t realize it was as much dedicated schooling as becoming a doctor or lawyer. Not only must you know your art history, but you have to excel in chemistry and the fine arts and technique and so much more. It was fascinating to hear her stories of what its like to work here in Italy, one of the art capitals of the world.

After exploring the lovely grounds of the Borghese Villa we set out to explore. We briefly visited Santa Maria del Popolo in hopes to see the famous “Conversion of St. Paul” by Caravaggio, but we went at 2pm when the church was taking its afternoon break. Like I mentioned awhile back, things just work differently here in Italy. From there we did something extremely exciting to me—we visited the Spanish Steps. The reason that I love them so much is because I know them from “Roman Holiday” starring Gregory Peck, and my favorite, Audrey Hepburn. It’s interesting to me how things become so much more personal when we recognize them, relating it back to prior experiences that touched us in some form or another. It’s a great emotional connection. I also got to film the introduction to the documentary of my trip here on the Spanish Steps, with all the tourists staring, probably wondering who I was.

Finally, in the evening we had a wonderful dinner party with all the docents and myself and my chaperone on the terrace above our apartment. I was so blessed to be around such great minds. All of them are the top of the line in their fields of study but then they are such down to earth and personable people. It was a great way to finish up the week. And, I also realized how much I am going to miss the incredible Italian cuisine!
Ciao!

Katie Estabrook (Hagstrom)

True Art Revealed

Photo credit: David Marks

Scipione Borghese, an Italian Cardinal from 1610 to 1633, was a very strong willed and conniving art collector who built a palace to match and display one of the finest art collections in the world.  His legacy was the establishment of the art collection of the Villa Borghese. This man’s attempts get his hands on the rarest art around wasn't always through the most pleasant of means. Although he stole and forced most people out of their art for his collection, I am really grateful that he did. I know that sounds selfish, but when I entered the museum, it was honestly the first time I made a true connection with art.

It's hard to describe, but I could feel the emotions and connect with the characteristics of the wonderful pieces that were displayed before me.  Witnessing Bernini's sculptures and paintings by other great artists gave me the appreciation to truly start to understand Baroque art. You can do all the research you want in the world on Baroque art, but until you stand before these works of genius, it is difficult to grasp the story and the history behind the artists’ emotions towards their work. After spending two hours at this magnificent Villa Borghese with Context Travel’s phenomenal guide, Hilary, I felt like a child opening up the biggest box he could find on a gentle Christmas Day. Two of my favorite pieces in the Villa Borghese were a statue by Bernini and a painting by Raphael.

Gian Lorenzo Bernini was one of the finest artists and contributors to the most beautiful sites we see today in Rome. He wasn't perfect, and he happened to make some erratic choices when it came to picking the right marble for his statutes. Unlike Michelangelo who really took pride in the selection of the perfect marbles to use, Bernini accepted his marble blocks sight unseen. This really made me frustrated, because I felt that if he would have taken that extra step to trying to perfect not only himself but his art, he could have true perfection in his statutes.

photos courtesy wikimedia commons

Besides the small imperfections in the marble - pockmarks here, black cracks and stains there, they all spoke to me. The one that really appealed to my emotions from all directions was Bernini's Apollo and Daphne. Do you know this extraordinary statue - and the story behind it? Our amazing docent told us to use the perspectives that Bernini wanted us to, as we viewed the sculpture. As you walk around the delicate carving from a single slab of marble, you have to imagine that you don't know the myth of the statute. At first from behind, it's gentle - you can see only a man running for something he wants. Then from the side, I got this sense of them making love and enjoying a good time. Next, Bernini  revealed from the front that it was the complete opposite since she looked in distress and was trying to run away from Apollo. Bernini did a great job of showing actual movement in the sculpture. It's almost as if you could predict the next sequence of movements about to happen. Finally, when I reached the last side, I felt Daphne’s pain, as well as Apollo’s lust. This could have all been avoided if Cupid could have taken a joke and not caused Apollo to be a crazed man in love with an untouchable woman, but then we would not have this interesting story and even more unbelievable statue to gaze upon.

photos courtesy wikimedia commons

Another piece within the gallery, Raphael's painting of the Deposition of Christ, was a perfect example of Renaissance art that helped me view art in a completely different way. Hilary sat us all down and told us to imagine lines crossing corner to corner on the canvas. Then she spoke about how Renaissance art was all about balance. Beside the emotion of a mother’s greatest grief being portrayed, it also showed perfect balance in numbers and in color.

Before I experienced Context’s walk on Italian art at the Villa Borghese, I never thought there were so many messages and higher level of thinking put into all this paint on canvas or carved marble. This walk really changed my mind about art and the way I view and process canvas and sculptures. It was very emotional for me and left me somewhat upset when we ran out of time, as analyzing art is something that I grew to appreciate once I was shown how to do it.  I cannot wait to dive into artwork in the future that will open my eyes to new worlds beyond those of Bernini and Raphael.   

-Malik Lee